With sand between my toes and sunshine in my soul – my Seychelles journey begins here
- Cinti
- Jul 22
- 10 min read
Updated: Jul 29
In July, Ádi and I set off to explore yet another slice of paradise — this time, the Seychelles. For me, this trip felt like a cherished dream, one I had always thought was just a bit too far out of reach ever to come true. Honestly, I never imagined I’d make it here. But here we are — and I can’t wait to show you what life is like in one of the world’s most stunning tropical countries.
In early July, after a layover in Dubai and a short connection, we finally landed on Mahé — the largest of the 115 islands that make up the Seychelles. The capital city, Victoria, is also located here, on a stretch of land that’s just 28 by 8 kilometers and easy to explore in a single day. Nearly 90% of the population lives on Mahé, so if you’re looking to get a taste of local life and culture, this is the place to be. The Seychelles sits in the middle of the Indian Ocean, about 1,600 km off the east coast of Africa — but with a bit of wanderlust, it’s within reach no matter where you’re coming from.
As for first impressions — the postcards don’t lie. The crystal-clear ocean shimmers in every imaginable shade of blue, the beaches are dusted with blindingly white sand, framed by dramatic granite boulders, swaying palm trees, and a vibrant underwater world. And luckily, we got to soak up a whole lot of it. Curious about what we did, saw, and experienced on this trip? Stick with me — I’ve got stories to tell!
Arrival in Mahé: renting a car, settling in & first impressions of Victoria
On the day we arrived, Mahé’s tropical side didn’t exactly greet us with sunshine. It was early July — the season of the southeast trade winds — which means drier, windier, and slightly cooler weather. Surfers love it, but if you’re here to swim and sunbathe, keep in mind that not all beaches are ideal for a dip this time of year.
When we landed early in the morning, the runway was still wet from the rain — and honestly, my mood was a little gloomy too. After a long journey, all I wanted was a bit of sunshine. Luckily, our luggage showed up quickly, and we headed out to meet our local car rental contact. We had booked through a small local company: no credit card or deposit required. We paid in cash (euros), as paying by card would’ve cost us an extra 4% — something they had kindly flagged in advance. In return, we got a nearly brand-new automatic Kia, picked up and dropped off right at the airport. Important note: they drive on the left here, and the cars are right-hand drive — a little reminder of Seychelles’ colonial past.
Before heading to our accommodation, we quickly exchanged some local currency (Seychellois Rupee, SCR) and picked up a SIM card. I couldn’t find a better deal on eSIMs, so we went with the physical option. Most forums recommended bringing euros over dollars, since they’re more commonly accepted and usually get a better exchange rate — and that advice definitely paid off for us. By the time we stepped out of the building, we were already sweating buckets — tropical humidity after rain is no joke.
Distances on Mahé are relatively short, so we quickly reached our accommodation on the island’s west coast. The roads are narrow, with lots of sharp bends and steep hills, so you have to take it slow and drive carefully. There’s one rule everyone follows without exception: if a bus comes around the corner, you pull over or stop. That’s it. Stick to that, and you’ll be just fine!
Nautilus Apartments was our home for the days ahead – luckily, the previous guests had checked out early, so we were able to move in by mid-morning. Just one narrow road separated us from the beach – the ocean was literally a stone’s throw away. That’s when it finally hit me: we had arrived.
We didn’t plan much for our first afternoon – it was all about settling in and adjusting. We headed into downtown Victoria for a short stroll, with the Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market as our main stop (we actually ended up going back a second time, too). Whenever we travel, visiting local markets is a must – it’s one of the most authentic ways to soak up the culture, try local treats, and hunt for treasures you might not find elsewhere (or only at a much steeper price). We stocked up on spices and fruits: vanilla, local curry blends, passion fruit, mangoes, bananas, and soursop.
After the long flight, we wandered the streets like a pair of zombies – but still managed to check out the iconic clock tower. On another day, we also visited the city’s one and only Hindu temple, Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar. Around noon, we stopped for lunch at Glorious Bakery – to be honest, we expected more based on the Google reviews, but we were hungry and happy to sit down for a bite. The rest of the afternoon was spent closer to the beach, slowly piecing together our plans for the upcoming days – just as any good travel blogger would. 😉
Trails and thrills – when my ankle was more nervous than I was
Back in May, I injured my ankle pretty badly, so we had to take it easy with the hikes — but skipping them altogether was never an option. The next morning greeted us with sunshine, and we had an idea: why not kick things off with a hike? Maybe, just maybe, the clouds would hold off and we’d get a clear view. We ended up choosing the Copolia Nature Trail — and it turned out to be a solid pick. The path is well-maintained, winding through lush jungle all the way to a lookout point with absolutely stunning views. Only downside? It started raining partway up, making things a bit slippery. So if you're planning to go, pack mosquito repellent, plenty of water, and a pair of sturdy hiking shoes that support your ankles. This was also the moment I fully realized: as much as I love hiking, I’m a water girl at heart. 😄
At the viewpoint, the weather changed by the minute — one moment blazing sunshine, the next a cold gust of wind and rain. Still, we managed to capture some great photos and videos. This kind of unpredictability was one reason we didn’t go for the Morne Blanc Trail — it’s at a higher altitude, and tends to be cloudier and foggier. Luckily, we weren’t in a rush. Just as we were about to head back down, the sun came out — and actually stayed! So if you find yourself in the same situation, be patient, the view is worth the wait. The entrance fee is 100 SCR (around €6/$7), and it's card payment only — a heads-up, since many trails on Mahé operate this way.
The next day took the adventure to a whole new level. We set off on a hidden, unmarked trail to reach the famous — or rather infamous — Rock Pool, also known as Ros Sodyer. This natural pool is carved into the cliffs on the island’s western coast, and while it’s undeniably beautiful, getting there was anything but easy or safe. Did we end up jumping in? Well, that’s a story for another day — and it deserved its own post. But spoiler alert: with one little twist, my ankle bravely made it through.
Diving and other adventures
We spent the next three days almost entirely immersed in dive training. We booked with UDive, located on the grounds of the luxury Constance Ephelia resort in Port Launay Bay — a certified PADI dive center. Since Ádi and I had already completed our Open Water Diver certification back in 2024 in Barbados, we were ready to take the next step: the Advanced Open Water Diver course.
The course included five dives: two mandatory ones — underwater navigation and deep dive (up to 30 meters) — and three adventure dives of our choice. We went for wreck diving, underwater photography, and peak performance buoyancy. That last one, often called “perfect buoyancy,” teaches you how to master neutral buoyancy underwater using body positioning, controlled movement, and mindful breathing. It didn’t start out smooth for me. Right before our first dive, I needed a moment to pull myself together. When you’re diving, being physically prepared isn’t enough — your state of mind matters just as much. Looking back, I’m glad I didn’t force myself through it but took a mindful, gentle approach. Thankfully, we had a fantastic and patient instructor, and in the end, the whole experience turned out to be unforgettable — a mix of thrill, surreal moments, and a touch of danger. And yes, by the end, we had our certification in hand! That said, the weather wasn’t exactly on our side — visibility underwater was not that good. If you're planning a trip for snorkeling or diving, I’d recommend coming during the calmer months of April–May or October–November when the sea is clearer and the experience even more magical.
We didn’t let the dive days go to waste either. One afternoon, we headed back to Victoria, and the next day we visited a place called Le Jardin du Roi — a botanical garden tucked away in the hills. To be honest, it felt a bit overhyped to us, especially after having seen Hunte’s Garden in Barbados (you’ll find that story here). That said, the homemade ice cream at the garden’s little restaurant was divine. The lemongrass flavor stole the show, but the mint and coconut ones were also top-notch. Bucketlister tip: bring mosquito repellent here too! The highlight for me was finally seeing the famous Coco de Mer palm up close. On Mahé, you’ll mostly spot it in botanical gardens, but in the wild it grows on Praslin, in the protected Vallée de Mai reserve. This plant is truly something else: it’s dioecious, and the female tree produces the largest seed in the world — it can weigh up to 20 kilos! It’s used in perfume production, and even the fleshy part inside is processed for traditional medicinal purposes. One afternoon we even stopped by the small factory where all this happens (The Coco de Mer Collection). There was no official tour, but they let us in, showed us around, and even let us taste the coconut water inside the seed. The scent? Like perfume. The taste? Well… let’s just say it was more interesting than delicious. Still, in the spirit of “who knows if I’ll ever be back here again,” I downed it all — not a single drop left behind.
We didn’t miss out on beach time either. We explored several stretches of coastline — sometimes just for photos, but we also spent some time relaxing at Anse Royale and Baie Lazaire. Our own bay wasn’t ideal for snorkeling, but it was perfect for sunbathing, reading, and recharging. One thing you absolutely need to be prepared for, though, is the tide. Seriously. You could be dozing off on the sand, only to have everything washed away by the rising water — it happened to us twice, regardless of the sand barrier we built. These are wild beaches with no facilities, and shade only if nature is kind, so make sure to arrive early. The tropical sun is no joke, so sunscreen is a must! We also got a glimpse of the local vibe: several times we came across Seychellois picnickers blasting music, laughing with friends and family, rum or beer in hand. Those are the moments when you really feel the laid-back Creole spirit. If you're after something quieter, you might want to move your towel elsewhere — these beach parties tend to last well into the evening.
La Digue – When postcards come to life
Since our time was limited, we decided to stay only on Mahé and not hop between islands – but after hearing so much about La Digue, we knew we couldn’t skip it. We explored it on a full-day excursion booked via GetYourGuide. For us, this was a much more convenient option than organizing every part ourselves: it included door-to-door transfers, round-trip ferry tickets, entrance to Anse Source d’Argent (one of the Seychelles’ most iconic beaches), and bike rental. The ferry left at 8 a.m., so we had to get up early. If you’re prone to seasickness, come prepared – not just with medication but also with a barf bag (luckily, they hand them out onboard too). We hit some pretty rough seas, and the ride felt more like a roller coaster – only out on the open ocean. We spent the entire day exploring the island, and La Digue truly felt like a little gem that had stepped out of a postcard. I’ll be sharing a separate, in-depth story about that day – trust me, it deserves its own spotlight. If you’re planning to organize everything yourself, you can save a bit of money. But one thing to keep in mind: ferry tickets sell out quickly, especially the morning departure from Mahé and the last return from La Digue. It’s best to book at least two weeks in advance – especially during high season, when many travelers plan a day trip just like we did.
Closing thoughts
We spent most of our last day by the beach — picked up a few souvenirs for loved ones back home and tried to soak up the island's magic as much as we could. The past days had been so intense that we hadn’t even fully processed everything — our minds and camera rolls were still spinning with memories. All in all, I truly believe this trip wasn’t just worth it — this is a place you have to visit once in your life. If you can, don’t put it off. With smart planning — like traveling off-season, staying in self-catering apartments, and eating at food trucks or takeaways — it can be surprisingly budget-friendly. And if you’re open to compromises on flight connections, even airfare can be much cheaper.
There are two things I truly regret. First, that we couldn't stay for at least two full weeks. That’s the time you’d need to explore not only Mahé but also the other major islands – ideally by staying in multiple places along the way. That said, it's worth noting that without dedicating three full days to diving, even a 9–10 day trip offers plenty of time for discovery. The second regret? The underwater visibility during this season wasn’t ideal, which slightly diminished the diving experience. But to be honest, it didn’t cast much of a shadow over the journey in the end.
There’s still so much left to share – new articles are on the way, each focusing on a different aspect or adventure from the trip. Stay tuned, and if you haven’t already, subscribe to the newsletter so you won’t miss a post! And to close, here’s a local saying I’m taking home with me: “Pa tro galoupe, ou pou mank sa pli bon.” Don’t rush too fast, or you’ll miss the best part. I’ve made a promise to myself: from now on, I’ll try to slow down, relax more, and simply enjoy the moment – no matter where I am in the world.
Thanks for reading!
If you have any questions, feel free to drop a comment or send me a message! And if you're dreaming of a similar adventure, my travel consulting services are just what you need.
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